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Trainspotting and the Train to York
14 Thursday Nov 2013
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14 Thursday Nov 2013
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14 Thursday Nov 2013
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14 November, 2013
Monday was my last day in Paris, and I spent a good portion of it on the hill around the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. This is the artistic – once bohemian – area called Montmartre. Today, like much of Paris, it is filled with shops selling the Artistic Parisian Experience to the masses. The bohemian spirit may live on somewhere in the underbelly of Paris, but the Montmartre of Picasso, Dali and Toulouse-Lautrec does not exist in the way it once did. Much like Hemingway’s Latin Quarter on the South Bank of the Seine, Montmartre now caters to those looking for something that doesn’t really exist anymore.
The Basilica doesn’t allow photography inside, which is something not respected by many of the mass of tourists there. I, however, do tend to respect the requests of these sacred places, so didn’t take any photos inside. I did snap a couple with the phone in the crypt. The stairway is the only one worth sharing. Up on the walkway around the dome, however, photography is quite permissible. The view is quite fantastic, much like I imagine the view from the Tower to be. Perhaps next time I return to Paris I will verify that.
Click to panoramas to embiggen for a better look!
That evening, my last in Paris, I returned to Place Charles de Gaulle and the Arc de Triomphe. Being the 11th day of the 11th month, Armistice & Remembrance Day, there is a ceremony at the grave of the Unknown Soldier who was buried there in 1918 following the end of WW I. In every French town there are memorials to the fallen in that conflict.
14 Thursday Nov 2013
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14 November, 2013
One of the places that I wanted to revisit while in Paris is the Musee Rodin. In the history of art, August Rodin is my favorite of the sculptors. I love the slightly crude and exaggerated form that he used to not just convey mass, but also emotion.
In addition to many studio maquettes — sculptural sketches — the collection has several casts that are among my favorites in the world of art: The Gates of Hell (and associated independently cast figures The Thinker, and The Three Shades), and The Burghers of Calais. (See the Wiki for history and some analysis of these. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mus%C3%A9e_Rodin http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Gates_of_Hell http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burghers_of_Calais)
Unfortunately it was raining off and on and I didn’t get to spend the afternoon in the garden quite the way I had hoped. Such is Paris in the fall, however. Afterwards, I walked through the Champ de Mars towards the Tower and waited for the top of the hour when the water cannons at the Trocadero fountains fired.
14 Thursday Nov 2013
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14 November, 2013
It’s been a few days since I took these pictures — almost a week in fact. The days in Paris were very full, and the nights were late. I was able to see the handful of things that I wanted to in the six hours I spent in this gargantuan museum. Here’s a few pictures that hit some familiar and some high points of the day.
09 Saturday Nov 2013
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10 November, 2013
Finishing up the night with some pics from around the city last night.
09 Saturday Nov 2013
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9 November, 2013
Beneath the shops and streets, the south of Paris sits atop a network of over 200 kilometers of ancient and medieval limestone quarries. This is the ground that the stone to build Notre Dame and the city of 1000 years ago. In the late 18th century, the cemeteries in the city became a problem. The solution that was found was to dig up the bones of over 6,000,000 dead and transfer them to a section of these tunnels. Eight kilometers were walled off and consecrated to become a massive ossuary. Just over one kilometer of this is open to visit. For a history of the bones, go here – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris_catacombs
I visited on Friday, and spent a couple hours in this underword. It’s hard not to contemplate life and mortality in this empire. Moved here at the turn of the 19th century, these are the remains of people who have been dead for five to ten times as long as I have been alive. It’s surreal to walk the aisles between retaining walls of femurs stacked nearly six feet high. Behind the walls the bones are piled, slowly returning to dust. It’s amazing to realize that the population of this empire of the dead is over twice that of the city above. (The metro area is much larger –12,000,000 – but the city of Paris proper is 2,500,000.) I am reminded of a shirt I saw many years ago, “It’s not that life’s too short, but that you’re dead for so long.”
06 Wednesday Nov 2013
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6 November, 2013
“If Paris did not exist, the world would have to invent her.
If the world did not exist, Paris would not care.”
Hemingway
I arrived yesterday afternoon Gare Montparnasse, and after two different metro lines settled into my hotel. As nice as it was to finally arrive in Paris, it was one of my best friends popping up on a chat message that really made my day. The day was cold and grey, but chatting with her filled my heart with sunshine and joy.
I have wanted to come back to Paris since the day I left in early July of 1998. There is something about this city that is just fantastic. Everything seems better here. Perhaps it is two thousand years of being settled, perhaps it is the sense of fashion, perhaps it simply the je ne sais quoi of it all. There are things I want to see while I am here. This afternoon was the architecture museum near the Eiffel Tower and then a brief visit to Notre Dame. Tomorrow will be the Musee d’Orsay. Perhaps the Catacombs and the Rodin Museum on Friday. Then, I think the weekend will be for the Louvre. Monday will be the last day here, and I believe I will allow myself to simply be in Paris. Soaking it in on the Champs Elysees before I leave this great city again. It will not be fifteen years before I return, and I don’t plan to come back here alone.
Last night, after chatting, I headed into the city. My first stop was the Trocadero and the famous view of the Tower. All around there and closer to the tower the temptation to photobomb again and again was nearly overwhelming. I was good and didn’t make funny faces or do silly things in anyone’s vacation pictures.
From the tower I rode the regional express subway (Paris actually has two subway systems – the Metro and RER) to the Latin Quarter (Rive Gauche, as they say) to find something to eat and have a look at the Cathedral. After wandering around the district called La Sorbonne, I ended up having a simple baguette panini and sugared crepe from a storefront vendor. The monuments in the city are all wonderfully lit at night, and the streets are still full here at ten pm. I was out for a few hours, walking around, basking in the beauty, and taking pictures. When I returned to my room, I was able to video chat with the same friend back home. That ended my first day here with a huge smile.
Tonight, after walking what feels like several miles in the last two days, I am tired. Additionally, for the first time on this trip, I am a bit lonely tonight and wishing for someone’s company. If you know who you are, you know that I wish you were here with me. I enjoy the freedom that comes with traveling alone, but in this city I wish I had someone to share the experience with. I don’t think I can come back to this city again by myself. This is a place to be shared.
Time to parse through the pictures. It appears that in four weeks time, I have captured around two thousand frames. Of those, six hundred twenty six have made it onto these pages. Enjoy!