28 March 2016

Mazara, Sicily

Easter Sunday found us in the town of Mazara on the southwest coast. Only 200 km from the north shore of Africa, there is a clear Arab influence in the architecture. There is also a large Tanzanian immigrant population here, situated primarily in the old quarter of the city of 20,000. Following the earthquake of 1964 the immigrants we offered to buy property cheaply if they would restore and live there. Today it is a thriving community known as Kasbah.

Arriving in the Cathedral Square, our guide Isabella explained to us more of the history of the blending of the Sicilian and Tanzanian cultures as we waited for the Easter procession. The piazza filled with several hundred people waiting for the arrival of the effigies of Mother Mary and the resurrected Christ. Shortly a small girl in angel’s costume with a placard reading “l’aurora” (the light) came through on a horse. The cathedral bells began ringing to announce the rebirth of the savior, and the effigy of Christ appeared through a smoke filled archway atop a bier carried by hooded men. As with the Holy Thursday vigils, and Good Friday processions, it is a treat to be here and see these rituals. Today the church may not have the same place society that is once did, but the traditions that date back hundreds of years.

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From the procession in the square we went to see the Museum of the Dancing Satyr. This 2500 year old Greek bronze was pulled up from the seabed in the nets of fishermen in 1998. A leg had been previously found, and it was suspected that a statue was hidden in the deep. There was much elation and disbelief on the fishing vessel when the satyr emerged from the sea. Today it is displayed in an old church re-purposed as a museum. In addition to the statue, there are several ancient vases and more more modern canon that were reclaimed from the sea.

We made a quick visit with our leader to a 19^th century theatre that was unannounced on the day’s itinerary. Such asides are called a “discovery” by Isabella, and are special things that she has found in previous visits that are a look into parts of Sicilian life that most people and other groups would never know about or have the opportunity to see. The puppet theatre in Palermo and marzipan kitchen in Erice were such discoveries that are proving to be some of the most memorable parts of our days here.

This “peoples theatre” was built by local shipwrights, and the techniques are evident in the wooden trusses and planking of the ceiling and stalls. The stage was fairly bare as the current production has a very minimal set of a few white flats providing masking for entrances and perhaps screens for shadow mime. With my background in production and the stage, I found this to be a special discovery in the day. Unused and closed up for many years the upholstery was new, but the triomphe de l’oile painting in the house and proscenium arch appeared to be original. This is called a people’s theatre because there is no royal or noble box in the gallery, the only distinction being that between the two levels of galleries and the grounding stalls on the floor. It is also very apparent in the simplicity of construction – timbers and painted wooden planks. There is very little plaster or fresco painting, the decoration is all simple trioimphe de l’oile on the wooden planking.

We were then joined by a local man, Paulo, and learned about the history and culture of the Tanzanian people. We sat in a cafe and enjoyed cappuccino while he told us about himself and the intermingling of the Islamic and Catholic communities. Following the talk with Paulo we walked toward the heart of Kasbah and enjoyed a Tanzanian cous-cous lunch.

Isabella translating for Paolo

Returning to the hotel we had two hours personal time for siesta that I used to finally make three posts here to the journal. Dinner was at a pizzeria where had a “cooking lesson.” Having grown up in a restaurant kitchen, I enjoyed the evening, but found nothing particularly unfamiliar or challenging. The ingredients had all been prepared for us and we were supervised by professionals in making the dishes. The executive chef in charge was a very humorous showman, the food was good, and everyone in the group had a very enjoyable evening.

I will leave you with a selection of photos from the nave and crypt of a church we stopped into — a fantastic example late Baroque verging into Rococo — and various sights around town.

arrivederci!